When you think of Osaka, where’s the first place that comes to mind? ¥5000 says it’s Dotombori. The famous Glico Man sign, the scores of tourists domestic and foreign alike taking poorly framed selfies along the riverbank, the stinkiest and most crowded shoutengai in the country. The first stop for every newly christened Osaka-fu visitor fresh off the train from Kanku. It’s an area renowned for neon-drenched night-time nine-percent chuuhais, drunk runaways dancing under foot-bridges, and about a trillion bars, clubs, and restaurants. The Dotombori/Namba area is the first place any tour guide, internet listicle, or friend-of-a-friend who’s been to Osaka one time pre-COVID will tell you to go for a night on the town. But, let’s say you’ve been there before; you’ve trawled the girls bars, you’ve run the konbini gauntlet, you’ve had enough of Namba. Where do you go for cool bars, cheap food, a little fun away from the obvious? My personal suggestion: Hommachi.

Hommachi is, in many ways, Namba’s less popular cousin. Located just a short (maybe 15-20 minutes, depending on how often you stop at a konbini to re-up on Asahi Super Dry on the way) walk from Namba, Hommachi was once home to the Nishimachi Magistrate’s Office during the Edo period, serving as the administrative center of the city, and boasts Osaka’s oldest bridge, built during the construction of Osaka Castle with the intention of connecting the castle to Funabashi. Being the administrative hub, Hommachi has always been a sort of economic capital for the city, still serving as an important business hub even today. Of course, that’s not what you’re here for, but we’ll get there. The financial importance may not seem particularly relevant to nightlife right now, but it does stand to explain why despite being so close to Namba and Shinsaibashi, a relatively small amount of people actually live there, with it and the surrounding area instead serving as a home to office buildings, hotels, and most importantly bars, rather than a large number of actual residents.

Okay, you did your homework, you powered through the boring historical shit, and now we get to talk about the fun stuff; food, booze, and music. Hommachi hosting a large number of office buildings makes it fertile ground for bars and restaurants, all aiming to satisfy the 5:30 to 8pm nomikai rush, late-night stragglers, and visiting foreign guests all at once. As office workers clock out for the day and look for a place to drink the day’s stresses away after fried chicken and soba, as foreign tourists take to the streets for drinks after a day of summertime sightseeing, Hommachi opens its welcoming arms and provides any number of places to scratch those itches. In this article, I’ll focus on 3 specific Hommachi bars where I’ve spent a lot of time and a frankly humbling amount of money, in the hopes that it inspires you to do the same.

Groovy Music Bar

Groovy is, above all else, a record bar. A damn good one, too. Whether you’re a dedicated reggae-head, a city-pop lover, or just someone who appreciates good music and good cocktails, owner, bartender, and master-selector Wataru has something special for you. Fluent in Japanese, English, Jamaican Patois, and music, Wataru has created an incredibly welcoming community of regulars and first-timers alike from all over the globe. It’s not uncommon to walk into Groovy, enticed by the hi-fi funk music echoing through the beautiful pre-war Kawasaki Savings Bank building, greeted by a diverse crowd of (among others) Japanese, Korean, Thai, American, and Chinese citizens, all brought together by their shared love of vinyl records and booze. Sit near the bar and you’ll inevitably strike up conversation with the ever-amicable Wataru, a veteran barman and people-person, where he’ll ask you what kind of music you want to listen to, and play it if he’s got it. Antique glasses, indie movie posters, and a selection of 3000+ vinyl records set the mood beautifully. The atmosphere of Groovy is breezy, casual, and (as any good bar should be) intoxicating. One visit and you’ll see why many customers, after years away from Japan back in their respective home countries, make a point of returning just to see Wataru.

Groovy Music Bar: 〒542-0081 Osaka, Chuo Ward, Minamisenba, 1 Chome−15−12 堺筋倶楽部 3F Sakaisujikurabu 3F 1-15-12 Minamisemba,Chuo-Ku Osaka city

*Groovy Music Bar is located on the 3rd floor of the former Kawasaki Savings Bank building. Closed on Tuesdays, regular hours are 8pm-2am Wednesday-Monday, but be sure to check the Instagram story for daily hours. Groups of more than 4 are generally not allowed, but if you call ahead of time, he may be able to accommodate you*

BAR DUDE

Step foot into Bar Dude for 2 seconds and you’ll catch the vibe immediately. Located in the basement of the old Kawasaki Savings Bank building, the same building as Groovy Music Bar, Bar Dude caters to a mix of seasoned veteran locals, tourists who’ve wandered in, and business persons looking to unwind after a day of office-work. Named after the titular character from the Cohen Brothers’ masterpiece “The Big Lebowski,” Dude truly does embody everything the Dude stands for. Cheap, laid back drinks (and yes, they can make a White Russian,) good conversations, and relaxed, smoky ambiance draw you in off the jump, making all who enter an instant regular. Owner Nori-san and bartender Yuki (a brilliant conversationalist who speaks very good English despite no formal English education) have crafted an atmosphere that feels like sitting a warm onsen, inspiring a deep, relaxing feeling in the soul of the weary barfly. 10 minutes at the counter at Bar Dude will do more to convince you than any write-up from a dipshit blogger ever could. Make sure to bring plenty of cash, as Bar Dude does not accept PayPay or cards, because you will sit there for a hell of a lot longer than you initially plan.

Bar Dude: 〒542-0081 Osaka, Chuo Ward, Minamisenba, 1 Chome−15−12 堺筋倶楽部 B1階

*As previously written, Bar Dude is cash only, and closed on Sundays. Regular hours are 8-4 Monday-Saturday*

Bonjour Shirako

Bonjour Shirako is a bit of a stretch to call a “Hommachi bar,” as it is, at this point, a pop-up. Moving around between Hommachi, Nakazakicho, Nishitenma, and Higashishinsaibashi, Bonjour Shirako is run (and named after!) former sommelier supreme of Fujimaru, a wine bar and Portuguese restaurant located in Higashishinsabashi, Miki-san. Not only is she an absolute genius with wine recommendations, she’s also an incredibly deft conversationalist, and after a few minutes in her presence, drinking wonderfully curated wines from across the globe, you’ll have no trouble understanding why she’s amassed a cult-following of devoted regular customers, unfailingly loyal to her. When I first met Miki-san, my fiancee introduced us, and within seconds I could understand why she was so keen to take me to Fujimaru. As she has recently branched out to do her own thing (though she is occasionally still at Fujimaru! Saturdays and Sundays only) I’m proud to be an early adopter of what is sure to be Osaka’s premiere wine bar very soon.

Bonjour Shirako: Check the schedule here for location and hours details, as it does move around

*Bonjour Shirako is currently cash-only, so be sure to hit the ATM beforehand, because you will certainly want to spend a long time chatting with Miki-san and the regulars*

In Summary

There’s almost too much to do, drink, eat, and laugh about in Osaka. It’s easy to get stun-locked by the sheer amount of night-life options in the city. That being said, hopefully these curated recommendations, as well as others coming in the future, will help alleviate that indecision and make your trip to the Kitchen of Japan all the more fruitful, rum-stained, and full of blackout fun. Stay beautiful, stay kind, stay Kansai.

xoxo,

バーテンダー